Our Family Christmas Market Trip to Germany: Munich and Nuremberg with a Toddler
As a family, we decided to visit Germany primarily to experience the famous European Christmas markets. This winter trip was extra special because it was the first time both Opal and I had ever been in such extreme cold. Temperatures dropped all the way to –2°C (28°F), and we not only felt real winter, but we also saw snow for the very first time. It wasn’t just her first snowfall—it was mine too—and that made the whole journey even more exciting and memorable.
Because we were flying from Florida, we knew jet lag and climate shock would be real. We landed in Munich around 9:00 a.m., made our way to the hotel, and gave ourselves permission to start slow. We checked in, unpacked a little, and rested until about 2:30 p.m., easing into our Germany winter vacation instead of rushing straight into sightseeing.
Where We Stayed in Munich: Residence Inn by Marriott Munich East
For our time in Munich, we stayed at the Residence Inn by Marriott Munich East. It’s in a very convenient location for a family visiting Munich without a car. Public transportation connections are excellent, and there was a bus stop about a five-minute walk from the hotel, which made getting around the city incredibly easy.
On our first night, we tried the hotel restaurant for dinner. The food was pretty good and reasonably priced, which is always helpful at the start of a trip when you don’t yet know where everything is. Our stay also included breakfast, which had most of the usual American-style options we’re used to: eggs, sausages, pancakes, bakery items, juices, and coffee.
One important thing for families to know when planning a Germany itinerary with kids: many hotels in Europe charge extra for more than two guests in a room, including children. We did have to pay an extra fee for having Opal in our room. The upside was that they arranged an additional queen bed for her in the same room, which worked out perfectly for our family. The room itself was a good size, with a small study area and a handy kitchenette, which is always a plus when traveling with a child.
Easing Into Munich: Jet Lag, Breakfast, and First Snow
The next morning, we tried the hotel’s breakfast buffet. Sitting by the window, looking out onto the patio while light snow fell, and sipping hot coffee felt like such a cozy, cinematic start to our Christmas trip to Germany.
The buffet had a good spread of juices, eggs, sausages, pancakes, and baked goods, and it gave us the energy we needed for the day.
Even after breakfast, the jet lag was real. Although we had initially planned an early start for sightseeing, we decided to listen to our bodies and take it slow. We went back to the room for a little more rest, then got dressed in our warmest winter layers.
If you’re visiting Munich in November or December, be prepared for real cold-weather travel. Multiple layers are essential. We wore thermals at all times, and I genuinely believe they are non-negotiable if you’re coming from a warm climate like Florida.
To make local travel easier, we used the MVV app and booked our public transportation tickets ahead of time. We chose a group city pass, which allowed a family of up to five people to travel together on one ticket. A key detail: the person who purchases the ticket must always be present when traveling, as the pass is tied to that person.
Getting Around Munich: MVV App and City Pass
The group pass gave us access to all trains, trams, and buses from Zone M to Zone 6. Munich Airport is in Zone 5, and Zone M covers the main central attractions in Munich. The city card also includes discounts at many sights and museums. We didn’t find a way to apply these discounts when booking tickets online, but we were able to use the card to get reduced prices when purchasing tickets directly at the tourist attractions. If you’re planning a family trip to Munich, this pass is a helpful, budget-friendly option.
Our first major stop in Munich was Viktualienmarkt, one of the city’s must-see attractions. This 200-year-old market was founded by King Maximilian I and is considered one of the oldest food markets in Europe. It’s also known for having survived World War II, which adds to its historical charm.
Viktualienmarkt: History, Food, and Glühwein
The market spreads in different directions, with stalls offering everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to hot meals and steaming cups of mulled wine (Glühwein). We wandered through the stalls, took some lovely photos of the fountains and monuments, and soaked in the atmosphere of our first European winter market. As the cold settled in, we warmed up with hot Glühwein and, around lunchtime, grabbed some crêpes from one of the vendors.
One practical tip for Viktualienmarkt: bring cash. Many vendors accept only Euros in cash, not credit cards. There are ATMs around the market, but it’s easier if you arrive with some cash already on hand.
Beer and Oktoberfest Museum: Warmth, History, and a Cozy Bar
From the market, we walked less than ten minutes to the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum. After spending so much time in the cold, the warmth of the museum felt wonderful.
If you want a brief, accessible introduction to German beer history, brewery culture, and how beer evolved over the years, this is a fun stop. Just be aware that the museum is not handicap accessible and not stroller-friendly. The exhibitions are spread across several floors above the ground-floor bar, and you’ll need to manage stairs.
You can book guided tours in advance through their website, but we chose to walk through the museum on our own. After exploring the exhibits, we went down to the bar area for beer tasting and some much-needed relaxation. It felt warm, cozy, and exactly the kind of place you want to be on a chilly evening in Munich.
Once we finished at the museum, we headed back outside and walked about ten minutes to Munich Cathedral, also known as Frauenkirche. This iconic church is one of Munich’s most recognizable landmarks and an important Catholic site.
Sunday Mass at Munich Cathedral (Frauenkirche)
We decided to attend Sunday Mass there at 6:00 p.m. The service is in German, but the experience itself is beautiful regardless of language. The cathedral’s architecture is simple yet striking inside, and some of the original artifacts from before the war are still preserved and displayed. To respect the solemnity of the liturgy, photos are not allowed during the service.
A Cold Sunday in Munich: Nymphenburg Palace and Munich Toy Museum
The next day, which was Sunday, the hotel staff reminded us of something important for any Germany family travel itinerary: most shops are closed on Sundays. Thankfully, many cultural attractions remain open, including Nymphenburg Palace, which was open until 4:00 p.m. That became our main plan for the day.
We started with breakfast again at the hotel. The property also had a children’s playroom,
and Opal really wanted to spend some time there. Because this was forecast to be the coldest day of our trip in Munich, it worked out well to let her play and to wait until closer to noon before heading out into the freezing temperatures. After some playtime, we layered up and took a train to Nymphenburg Palace.
Visiting Nymphenburg Palace requires a good amount of walking. There is a large park and garden area around the palace, and you have to walk through much of it before reaching the main entrance. Inside, you can explore with or without an audio guide. We decided to rent the audio guide and found it extremely helpful for understanding the palace’s history. If you stop at every station and listen to the full commentary, expect the palace visit to take about two hours.
After finishing the interior tour, we browsed the gift shop briefly and then walked around the palace grounds outside, taking in the scenery. I highly recommend bringing a stroller if you’re visiting Nymphenburg with a child and plan to explore the gardens.
There are lockers inside where you can store bags, and you are not allowed to eat or drink inside the museum areas, so everything must be put away before you go in.
Later that day, we headed to the Munich Toy Museum. Once we arrived, we realized that the museum is actually located right by Viktualienmarkt, so if you’re planning your own Munich with kids itinerary, it’s efficient to combine those two stops on the same day.
The toy museum itself has very steep stairs and is divided into several small rooms over three or four floors. You take the elevator up and are asked to use the stairs to come down. The collection is heavily focused on Barbie and Ken dolls, with fewer categories of other toys.
Our daughter enjoyed seeing the dolls and displays, but we felt there wasn’t a lot of variety overall. Another note for families using the Munich city card: the discount did not apply when we bought tickets at this particular museum.
After finishing there, we grabbed shawarma from a food stall inside the subway station. We had been eyeing it every time we passed by, and it turned out to be absolutely delicious and full of flavor. That simple meal was the perfect way to end the day. Our second full day in Munich felt relaxed and manageable, which was exactly what we needed before our travel day to Nuremberg.
Train from Munich to Nuremberg: ICE First Class
The next morning followed a familiar pattern: hotel breakfast, packing up the room, and checking out. We had pre-booked our train from Munich to Nuremberg using the Deutsche Bahn (DB) app. For this leg of our Germany itinerary, we chose ICE first-class tickets with seat reservations.
If you’re traveling Germany by train, especially with children, I highly recommend reserving seats ahead of time. On the day of our journey, we were told that all the seats were booked, so it was a relief to have our spots secured.
The ride from Munich to Nuremberg takes about an hour and a half on the ICE fast trains. In first class, there were individual charging points at our seats, which made it easy to keep phones and tablets powered.
Partway through the journey, the conductor came by to check tickets, and a service staff member followed later to take orders for snacks and drinks. The train was clean, comfortable, and quiet, and the scenery of the German countryside passing by outside the window was beautiful.
Our Nuremberg Base and Thanksgiving Dinner at Niku
When we arrived in Nuremberg, we went straight to our Airbnb. It was comfortable and simple—not luxurious—but in a very practical location, surrounded by restaurants and grocery stores and with easy access to the subway. Since it was in the city center, it worked perfectly as a base for a Nuremberg Christmas market trip.
After freshening up, we strolled around the city center to get a feel for the area.
It happened to be Thanksgiving Day, so we had booked an early dinner at Niku, a Japanese barbecue restaurant. We reserved a table on the barbecue floor via their website before the trip. When it was time to go, we took an Uber there. We were running a bit behind schedule, but we called ahead, and the staff was very accommodating and held our reservation.
At Niku, we ordered the premium cut of Wagyu barbecue and a kids’ barbecue set for Opal. I had hot ginger tea, and Kiran ordered cocktails. The Wagyu was extraordinary—tender, buttery, and literally melting in our mouths. We grilled it at the table using the built-in barbecue, cooking it to a perfect medium rare. The Wagyu set came with rice, vegetables, and soup, making it a complete meal. For dessert, I chose a matcha tiramisu, a creative fusion of Italian tiramisu and Japanese matcha, topped with berries. It was light, flavorful, and a wonderful way to end our Thanksgiving dinner in Nuremberg.
After that, we took an Uber back to our Airbnb and called it a night, knowing the next day would be a big one.
Nuremberg Castle and the Opening of the Christkindlesmarkt
The next morning, we booked a one-day public transport ticket for Nuremberg using the VGN app. The day pass covered both adults, and our daughter traveled for free, which made it easy and affordable to get around the city.
Once we were ready, we stopped at a local bakery for breakfast. We picked up sandwiches, croissants, and coffee and ate on the go as we walked. Our main destination for the day was Nuremberg Castle (Kaiserburg), one of the highlights of any Nuremberg travel guide.
At the castle ticket office, we purchased a combo ticket that included the Imperial Palace (Kaiserpfalz), the Double Chapel, the Deep Well with guided demonstration, and the Sinwell Tower viewpoint. Although you can book tickets individually, we highly recommend the full combo because each part adds a unique dimension to the experience.
The Deep Well demonstration is scheduled at specific times, so when you buy your ticket, it’s important to ask when the next tour is and plan your visit around that. There are lockers where you must store your bags, as food and drinks are not allowed inside the castle exhibits.
We had some time before the Deep Well tour, so we started with the Imperial Palace. Be prepared for lots of stairs. The climb is worth it, though, because the interiors are beautiful and historically rich. One highlight is the Double Chapel, which, we were told, still retains much of its original construction because it was not heavily damaged during World War II. As you move through the different rooms and floors, you learn a lot about Bavarian and Nuremberg history.
There is an optional audio guide that explains the displays as you go. Along the way, you’ll notice windows marked with a small eye symbol—these spots provide some of the best views of the city, and they’re perfect for photos. At the top floor, you reach a collection of historic Bavarian weapons and armor, which we found fascinating.
After exploring the interior, we stopped for lunch at the café inside the castle. It was bitterly cold outside, so hot mulled wine for the adults and hot chocolate for Opal felt wonderful.
We also ordered pumpkin soup, which was particularly delicious. The café’s bathrooms were clean, which is always appreciated when traveling with a child.
Next, it was time for the Deep Well demonstration. We walked over and waited outside for a bit in the cold. The tour itself was well worth the wait. The guide explains how deep the well is, some of its history, and how it was constructed. The well survived wartime bombing and stands as another symbol of endurance in Nuremberg. Inside, it’s very important to keep a tight hold on your belongings and your children, as the well is extremely deep and open at the top.
Once the demonstration ended, we climbed the stairs up to the Sinwell Tower. There are many steps and no elevator, so it can be a bit of a workout, but again the effort pays off. At the top, you’re rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Nuremberg. We took some of our favorite photos of the trip from that vantage point.
After the castle, we decided to have an early dinner at Tottori {make this a link - https://www.tottori-restaurant.de} which is located very close to the main Christmas market area.
We know it sounds like a lot of Japanese food—Japanese barbecue one night and ramen the next—but this time we just wanted something comforting and warm. The ramen bowls were exactly what we needed: hot, soup-based noodles with a bit of spice and perfectly sized portions.
One thing to note about Tottori is that they do not accept credit cards. They only take cash or debit cards, which may not be ideal for everyone, but since we needed to carry cash for the Christmas market anyway, we were prepared. The bathrooms at the restaurant were very clean, and I recommend using the facilities there before heading into the market, where you’ll mostly rely on public restrooms.
The Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt officially opened that evening at 5:30 p.m. with a children’s caroling performance. If you want a good view of the stage and the Christkind, I recommend arriving early and securing your spot, as it becomes very crowded, very quickly. The caroling is done by children of different ages, mostly in German, and lasts about ten minutes, but it’s a beautiful way to kick off the Christmas season.
When the performance ends, the Christmas market officially opens. That night, we focused on the main market area rather than the children’s section.
Our First European Christmas Market: Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt
This was our very first time at a European Christmas market, and we absolutely loved every moment. Opal had so much fun, and it’s hard to fully capture how magical it felt. The cold winter air, the glow of lights, the hum of conversation, and the smell of food and spices all come together to create an atmosphere that truly fills you with Christmas spirit.
The market is packed with Christmas ornaments, children’s toys, food stalls, cookies, gingerbread, candies, and so many unique treats to bring home. There are also numerous stands selling mulled wine. One of our family traditions is to buy a Christmas ornament from every place we visit around the world, so we picked out a special ornament for Nuremberg here.
We enjoyed sausages from the food stands and plenty of mulled wine to keep us warm as we wandered through the different aisles of the market. The mulled wine is served in special cups custom-made for the 2025 Nuremberg Christmas Market. When you order, you pay a five-euro deposit per cup. You can return the cups to get your deposit back, or you can keep them as souvenirs. We decided to keep our cups and also bought a bottle of mulled wine to bring home for Christmas Day.
We also sampled coconut cookies, marzipan (which had been recommended by a German friend), and cookies flavored with star anise, which had a very unique taste. The whole Christmas market experience was lively and joyful. People were singing, laughing, browsing, and soaking in the festive atmosphere. We knew almost immediately that we would spend our remaining two nights in Nuremberg returning to this market, because once simply wasn’t enough.
When the cold finally got to us and Opal started to feel tired, we headed back to our Airbnb and called it a night.
DB Museum and the Kinderweihnacht: A Perfect Day with a Toddler
The next morning, we visited the DB Museum, Germany’s railway museum in Nuremberg. This is a fantastic stop if you have a child who loves trains or if you’re interested in transportation history.
The museum has a large coatroom where you can also leave your stroller and bags, which makes navigating the exhibits much easier. There’s also an on-site café for snacks and warm drinks. Opal’s entry was free, and we only had to pay for the two adult tickets.
The museum spans several floors and covers a wide range of topics. If you choose to rent the audio guide and go through all the exhibits in detail, you’ll want at least four to five hours. If you prefer a more relaxed pace and just want to see the highlights, you can comfortably explore the museum in a couple of hours.
The exhibitions walk you through the early days of German railways, the evolution of trains over the years, and even how a steam engine works. There is also a thoughtful section covering the role of the railways during the Nazi period. For children, there are many hands-on experiences, including old wired telephones and interactive displays.
At the end of the museum route, we went up to the top floor, where there is a dedicated children’s play area filled with toys. There is also a small indoor children’s train ride, for which you have to buy a separate Kibala ticket. Opal absolutely loved this ride and the play space.
After our museum visit, we went for an early dinner at Anjappar Chettinad, an Indian restaurant that is conveniently located near the center of the Christmas market area.
The service was a bit slow, but the food was delicious. We ordered extra so we could take leftovers back to the Airbnb. With dinner done, we headed to the Kinderweihnacht, the children’s section of the Nuremberg Christmas market. If you’re traveling to Germany with kids, this area is a dream. It is absolutely magical, especially in the evening. Opal’s eyes lit up as we walked through the various rides and stalls. There were children’s rides, a Santa Claus house, and an incredible variety of candies and treats.
To go on the rides, you purchase tickets. For us, it was about twenty euros for ten tickets. As with the main market, it’s important to carry plenty of cash, as many vendors accept cash only. We tried blueberry mulled wine and more marzipan, which were both delicious. At the Santa Claus house, we went in for a photo. The visit costs extra, but they print the photo on the spot and give it to you, which makes a lovely keepsake. Opal walked right up to Santa and told him she wanted a pink elephant for Christmas. A quick note about ride tickets: if your child is old enough to ride alone, you only need one ticket. If an adult rides along, some operators will ask for a ticket for the adult as well. After more rides and treats, we headed back to our Airbnb. It was another full and joyful day in Nuremberg.
Lockers, Toy Museum, and One Last Visit to Frauenkirche and the Market
The next morning was our last in Nuremberg. We had to pack up and check out of our Airbnb, but our train back to Munich wasn’t until 7:30 p.m. That meant we needed a way to store our luggage for the day.
We booked an Uber to Nuremberg Central Station. If you’re using Uber or taxis in Germany with a young child, it’s very important to message the driver immediately after booking to confirm that they have a booster seat or car seat. Germany has strict laws regarding children in cars. Most drivers do carry booster seats, but not all. We had a couple of drivers cancel rides because they did not have a seat available.
At the station, we looked for luggage lockers. It took a while to find lockers large enough for our checked suitcases. There were plenty of smaller lockers that could hold carry-on bags. To use the lockers, you need coins. The smaller lockers cost three euros, and the larger ones cost five euros per locker. Once our bags were safely stored, we had another five to six hours to enjoy Nuremberg.
We decided to visit the Nuremberg Toy Museum (Spielzeugmuseum). This museum turned out to be very different from the toy museum in Munich and was one of the highlights of our Nuremberg with kids experience.
Unlike the Munich toy museum, which felt heavily focused on Barbie and Ken dolls, the Nuremberg Toy Museum has a much wider variety of toys and many hands-on areas for children. Some of the older dolls were downright creepy—they looked like they came straight out of a horror movie—but the overall variety and richness of the collection were impressive.
Throughout the museum, there are play stations for children and seating areas for parents, which makes it easy to take breaks. The top floor is another dedicated kids’ play area, packed with toys. If you explore the museum leisurely and take advantage of the play spaces, you’ll want about two to three hours. As with many museums in Germany, audio guides are available for adults who want to dive deeper into the historical context. Entry was free for Opal, which is common for many museums in Nuremberg and is a huge plus when planning a family travel budget.
After we finished at the toy museum, we returned to the Christmas market one last time. This time, we spent more time at Frauenkirche, the Church of Our Lady, which stands right at the heart of the main square. It’s a small but beautiful Catholic church located in the center of the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt.
The combination of the church, the lights, and the festive stalls around it made this final visit feel extra meaningful. We strolled through the market again, picked up some beer mugs as souvenirs, and sampled more food from the stalls. Eventually, it was time to head back to the station. We retrieved our bags from the lockers and made our way to the DB ICE train back to Munich. German trains are generally punctual, but on this trip we noticed that delays and cancellations are not uncommon. We made it back to Munich that night, but the train that was supposed to take us from Munich Central Station to our hotel near Munich International Airport was canceled. We ended up taking an Uber instead. To our surprise and delight, when we checked into the Marriott hotel near the airport, we were upgraded to a bigger, modern suite.
Breakfast was included the next morning, which was a great bonus. The hotel is about a fifteen-minute drive from the airport. For travelers who prefer Hilton, there is also a Hilton hotel located inside Munich Airport itself. Knowing the morning rush, we reserved an Uber the night before for our airport transfer.
The next morning, we arrived at the airport and encountered long lines at security, but there was a separate line for families with young children, which moved much faster. We made it to our gate in time. Our connecting flight was delayed, but by God’s grace, we still made it home the same night.
Final Thoughts: Ornaments, Memories, and Recommendations
One of our family traditions is to collect Christmas ornaments from every destination we visit. We were able to find beautiful ornaments in both Munich and Nuremberg, and we’re excited to add them to our Christmas tree at home. The Nuremberg Christmas Market in particular had an incredible variety of designs and styles of Christmas decorations. If you’re planning on shopping for ornaments and décor, make sure you leave enough space in your luggage, because it’s very easy to fall in love with many unique pieces you won’t find anywhere else.
This family Christmas market trip to Germany was a beautiful experience, full of memories that we’ll carry with us for a long time. We would absolutely recommend visiting a Christmas market at least once in your life. It doesn’t have to be in Germany specifically— any major European Christmas market will immerse you in the magic of winter, deepen your appreciation for Advent and Christmas traditions, and fill you with a sense of wonder.
Thank you for reading our Germany travel blog. Stay tuned for our next adventure!
